Duration: 12 Nights / 13 Days
Places Covered: Mumbai-Ahmedabad-Bharwad-Gowala-Patan-Rann of Kutch-Bhuj-Mumbai
Day 1 /: Arrive In Mumbai:
Arrive Mumbai and transfer to the Hotel.
Day 2 :- Fly to
Ahmedabad, then drive to Utelia, a feudal
village clustered around a medieval palace. Overnight in Hotel
Day 3:The Bharwad
A pastoral people, the Bharwad are shepherds and cattlemen. No longer
wanderers, most Bharwadi live in villages painting their houses primarily
in blues, greens and white. We visit several, wandering the neat lanes,
and perhaps visiting one or two homes. Some Bharwadi have turned their
talents to different occupations; the polishing and cutting of diamonds
is one, and we will be able to photograph the steps that turn a handful
of dull looking opaque lumps into sparkling gems. At a local camel-breeding
farm, the business of producing the finest stock of camels is explored.
Day 4 :A Stepwell & Sun Temple
Our drive to Balaram takes us away from life today and into the past.
We plan three major stops: a museum, a stepwell (baoli), and a sun temple.
The Calico Museum is one of the most fascinating museums in all of Gujarat,
if not India, and houses an extensive array of tribal fabrics, both modern
and antique, wall hangings, tapestries, and costumes. Adalaj Wav (built
in 1499) is the most famous of the Gujarati baolis (step-wells). These
elaborate creations, unique to Gujarat, were constructed by royal families
as a means of ensuring a source of water throughout the year and as a
place of escape from the fierce Gujarati summers. The stone-clad walls
have been adorned with carvings of flowers and birds, and at the bottom
of the five story-deep well, is a small pool of water. The Modhera Sun
Temple dates from the reign of King Bhimdev I (1027/27), and is said to
resemble the famous Konark temple in Orissa. Like Adalaj Wav, Modhera’s
granite austerity is relieved by the slight of brightly-clad locals walking
around the complex. (Balaram Palace Resort, 3 nights)
Day 5: The Gowala & The Garacia
Tribes that are second cousins to each other, they differ only in the
manner of living; the Gowala are more settled, the Garacia are still prone
to roaming, and their women dress is a manner slightly less ostentatious
than the Gowala females. Their tribal home is among the hills that separate
Gujarat from Rajasthan, and they are primarily sheepherders. One evening
we will enjoy a private performance of tribal dances.
Day 6 :Patan's Patola Weavers and The Rani-ki-Vav
An art that today is only practised by three families, patola is an intricate
form of double ikat weaving that is so difficult and demanding that one
sari can take up to six months to complete.All three families live near
Gujarat’s oldest baoli, the 11th-century Rani-ki-vav; we will visit
one of the families, and explore the stepwell during our drive into the
Little Rann of Kutch. (Desert Courser Camp, 3 nights)
Day 7 :The Banjara and The Rabari
The Little Rann of Kutch separates Kutch from the rest of Gujarat. It
is an area composed of marshy salt flats and inhospitable terrain. Flamingos
breed in the area’s shallow lakes; here too, the last remaining khurs
(Asiatic wild asses) live in a protected sanctuary. Through this land
travel the Rabari, the most nomadic of Gujarat’s tribes, constantly
searching for better grazing ground for their camels and sheep. Other
tribes have settled here, including the Banjara, who make their living
from cattle, and whose female members are famous for their embroidery.
Day 8 :Into The Rann of Kutch
Today, we head westward into the bleak countryside of Kutch, Gujarat’s
last frontier. It will be a day of driving, with no scheduled stops, only
those of our own choosing as we head toward Bhuj, the region’s capital.
This, fortunately, is the season when the Rabari migrate, so it’s
possible our journey may be enlivened by meeting a group of them along
the way. (Prince Hotel, 4 nights)
Day 9-Day 11:A Melting Pot of Tribes
Megwar. Samma. Jat. Mutwa. Ahir. Rabari. These are just some of the tribes
we will photograph over the next four days as we make daily excursions
into the barren and inhospitable landscape that is the Great Rann of Kutch.
Some time will be devoted to Bhuj, which was partially destroyed by the
earthquake that struck in January 2001. We tour the Old City (via motor
rickshaws) seeing, among other places, the Aina (Old) and Prag (New) mahals
(palaces) and visit the Bhartiya Folk Museum with its exhibits pertaining
to local tribal life. We also visit an artist who is one of only three
peple continuing to paint in the Rogan style.
Day 12: Homeward Bound
Saturday morning we fly from Bhuj to Bombay. Upon arrival, we are transferred
to our hotel. In the late evening be driven to the airport for onward
flights.
Bharti